Fermentation and Family Tradition at Harry’s Pizza e Vino

Although it’s one of the newer restaurants on the village scene, Harry’s Pizza e Vino feels like it’s always been there. Perhaps that’s because locals have wanted an inviting pizzeria for as long as I can remember, and now that dream has become realized. Thanks to the owners, Laurie and Avni (Al) Latifi, everyone who walks through the door feels like they belong. The couple has created an atmosphere that holds up year-round, through the summer high tide and the winter low. Elkhart Lake’s first dedicated pizzeria has been a hit. It’s hard to imagine East Rhine Street without it.

I recently had the pleasure of going down restaurant memory lane with Laurie and Avni. Contrary to what many assume given the Italian fare served at Harry’s, Avni’s family has Albanian roots, originally hailing from Macedonia. “I’ve actually never been to Italy,” Avni laughs. “But I love food.” A love for different types of cuisine and a passion for successful restaurants runs in his family. Many in the village came to know Avni and Laurie before they opened their doors in Elkhart Lake. They’ve both worked at Avni’s family’s restaurants, Harry’s Diner (two locations) and Harry’s Prohibition Bistro, in Sheboygan. Now the couple is carrying the family torch into a charming dining room in their dream location of Elkhart Lake.

The family pizza legacy began when Avni’s brother, Harry, took interest in serving Neapolitan-style pizza at Prohibition Bistro. “I eventually became curious about other pizza-making techniques and came across Roman-style,” explains Avni. “My nephew, Adrian, and I decided to travel to Miami to get certified at the Roman Pizza Academy. We studied with Massimiliano Saieva. He grew up in Rome.” For those new to the Roman pizza universe, Saieva is the guy for Roman technique in the U.S. Avni and Adrian are the 90th and 91st students to complete the program nationwide. This positions them not only in the first 100 people to complete the program but also makes them the first Roman-style certified pizzaioli (pizza makers) in the state of Wisconsin.

What is it about the Roman technique that led Avni on a plane to Miami? The crust. While Neapolitan-style is focused heavily on the wood-fired oven and the traditional ingredients, Roman-style is more concerned with the dough preparation. Upon returning from Miami, they put their dough to the test as they began making take-away pizzas. “This type of dough results in pizzas that re-heat really well”, explains Avni. “The crust keeps its crunch while still remaining light and airy.” This concept was quickly successful at Prohibition.

“It’s all about the fermentation time,” Laurie points out. While most places allow dough to ferment for a day, the Latifis allow their dough to rise for up to 5-6 days. This makes for the type of texture the restaurant owners are after. Another benefit of the long fermentation is that it creates a more nutritious dough due to the gluten and protein structures breaking down and becoming more digestible. There are different approaches to the Roman category of pizza. Avni was most inspired by the al taglio style, which translates to the pizza maker selling by the cut. “Traditionally it’s more of a street food. The slices are measured out, then cut with scissors and served to-go”, says Avni.

“My dream was to take that Roman-style al taglio dough and make a pizza that could be experienced sitting at a table or taken home,” Avni reflects on how his Elkhart Lake restaurant vision came to be. “Tourists and locals both want the experience of enjoying a ready-to-eat hot dinner. So, we brought our favorite dough to the classic 12 in round pizza.” The couple takes the ingredients and beverages as seriously as they take their dough making. “I always say that a great wine starts in the field. I feel that way about the flour we source too. Long fermentation requires a strong flour, not just any flour will do. We import our favorite flours from Italy.”
One of the spectacular aspects of the Elkhart Lake culinary community is that entrepreneurs like Laurie and Avni take the time to go study their craft. They go all in on their vision, then they share their final products with the village. It’s one of the reasons that the small town has such quality dining and beverage establishments.

As other local entrepreneurs’ stories go, Laurie and Avni are well seasoned in the Sheboygan County restaurant scene. Overtime, they got to know Elkhart Lake residents who dined at their restaurants in Sheboygan. “Now we meet people from Sheboygan who are coming to Elkhart Lake to eat with us here,” laughs Laurie. “We’ve always loved going to the races on weekends and then having dinner at the Paddock Club and Lake Street, and breakfast at Off the Rail,” Avni reminisces. “We’ve been to Off the Rail a little less than we’d like lately given our work schedules,” he chuckles.

Elkhart Lake welcomed the Latifis with open arms and the couple couldn’t be happier with their location. They’ve never doubted their decision to open a business in the village. What does the future hold for Harry’s Pizza? “People keep asking us when we’re going to expand,” laughs Laurie. “We opened this place because we are empty nesters. It helps us to be a part of the community. It’s fun!”

Avni elaborates, “We’re not looking to be big. A lot of restaurants want to grow. We want to continue doing one thing right, not ten things just alright. We are committed to our pizzas consistently coming out great. If we achieve that, our people will continue to come, and we won’t have to pay for advertising. We love going to work. We want to keep it that way.” Keeping things simple and consistent with a menu focusing on pizza means there’s more energy and time for the restaurant to create special touches for the dining experience. This comes through with the quality of the food, but also through their thoughtful beverage program. Diners can see large jars filled with house made liqueurs on display near the bar including limoncello and nocino, a special liqueur that Avni makes using local English walnuts.

During the winter months, customers can enjoy a complimentary taste of vin chaud (mulled wine with cinnamon and clove), and fans of the warming beverage can purchase a bottle to take home. For those wanting to stick a little closer to home with their beverage choices – no problem. Harry’s is just as committed to pouring Wisconsin-style old fashioneds as they are making Roman-style pizza. “If there’s a bottle of whiskey that a regular customer prefers, we try our best to keep it stocked behind the bar,” Avni says with pride.

The Latifi’s have taken Wisconsin hospitality and blended it with their personal vision for what a pizzeria ought to be. Whether dining at a cozy table enjoying pizza topped with braised beef and a bottle of Barolo or taking a box of four cheese to eat at home during a football game, the restaurant’s ability to meet people where they’re at is aligned with the Elkhart way of doing things. There are times when we reach for elegance and there are times when we prioritize low-key comforts.Both are avenues for a special evening.

Harry’s Pizza e Vino is a stunning example of how bigger does not always mean better, and that there is strength in simplicity. Oftentimes, quality really does rule over quantity. Just like the small village itself, a small dining room can lead us to what’s most meaningful and delicious in life. “Those of us who make food are artists,” Avni smiles. “When we use good ingredients and consistently commit to our craft, we can bring something great to the canvas.”